How To Replace Old Basement Windows

When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style domicile, they fell in dearest with its handcrafted plow-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to notice that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-drinking glass windows, and an ornate bandage-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade before for depression-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the svelte Victorian-era dwelling, This One-time House TV'south autumn 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH full general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements.

Considering the existing window frames were sound and foursquare, Tom could apply insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen'southward Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-e insulated drinking glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows sideslip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to honey about their one-time house. Here'due south a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

ane. Window Replacement Parts

Analogy by Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Different full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as eleven ½ inches to every bit broad as 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad woods, and aluminum-clad wood.

There are iii basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—requite an sometime window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to piece of work, the existing window frame must be level and foursquare. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a set up-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Because you're calculation new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening downwardly to its rough framing, inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photograph past Russell Kaye

The most important step in the window-replacement process happens long earlier installation day. It's when you lot measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you lot social club a replacement unit that'due south the right size. Here'southward how to exercise it.

• Beginning past measuring the within width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the peak, eye, and lesser. Write down the smallest of the 3 measurements.
• Next, measure the frame's height from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Again, record the smallest measurement.
• Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The ii dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by i/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Annihilation more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is and then out of whack that a foursquare replacement wouldn't look correct, you'll need a full-frame replacement.
• Finally, use an bending-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Have Out the Sash

Photo past Russell Kaye

• The first step is to remove the one-time sash from the window frame. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, do this task carefully; they intermission easily.)
• Next, take out the parting beads to complimentary the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, in that location won't exist whatsoever beads. Simply press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward.
• Then pivot one side of the sash upward to gratuitous it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Leave the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an outside-grade forest putty, such as the ones from Elmer'southward or Minwax.
• So sand the jambs smooth, and prime and pigment the surfaces.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are notwithstanding in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate backside the window frame.
• Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Photo past Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it's more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Make sure to use simply low-pressure, minimally expanding cream intended for windows and doors; anything else volition bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• Beginning, pull out whatever existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then bore 3/viii-inch-diameter holes, one near each end and one in the centre, down through the sill and upward through the head jamb.

eight. Spray in the Foam

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, only y'all tin can do the same job with foam from a tin can, like Dow's Bang-up Stuff.)
• Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the excess to harden for at least half dozen hours, then suspension or cut information technology off affluent before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• In training for installing the window, utilise an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face up of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame. Besides use 2 continuous chaplet of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Working from within the room, set the lesser of the insert replacement onto the sill, and then tip it upwardly into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

11. Fasten It Loosely

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Hold the window in place with ane 2-inch spiral driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in just far enough to let the window to operate.
• Shut and lock the sash.

12. Shim every bit Necessary

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until information technology is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Mensurate the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is square, spiral it in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim backside the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Caulk, Prime number and Pigment

Photo past Russell Kaye

• From the outside, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than 1/4 inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill whatever gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
• Terminate upwards by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
• Then prime number and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

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