How To Clean Teak And Holly Floors

Refinishing Teak Floors

Date: November 15, 1999
From: Rex & Ann Crawford Sockhat1@aol.com

Our 1984 33' has what I believe to be teak and holly floors. I wish I knew someone who knew the proper process for re-finishing them as well equally the teak interior. Anyone got suggestions?

Date: November 16, 1999
From: Donna Cass bacchus42@earthlink.net

Our 42 came with the entire transmission and it lists those products used on our boat.

International Pigment
Varnish #sixty - Hand rubbed - interior
Sealer #x9297 - used to seal all varnished areas, interior or exterior
Varnish #90 - Cabin sole

Since I am not fond of the upkeep the varnish calls for, I would utilize some other production. Even so, I havae been told that other "POLY" products cannot be used over these finishes without complete removal of the varnish. I would contact the company and inquire lots of questions. The following is the adress and form #:

1983:
Morris & Elmwood Avenues,
Union, NJ 07083
1-800-631-7481
(This is now the Interlux mfg.)

Skilful Luck!

I am sanding down those parts of the interior that need to exist refurbished this winter, equally fourth dimension allows, to set all surfaces for finishing in the warmer spring conditions. Our teak interior has exquisit grain a, especially on the curved and rounded surfaces, which I wish to maintain. I take completed the forest surrounding the middle cockpit with satin Fleet (nice color and grain shows through ) and nosotros are very happy with it. However, I won the war (between spouses) regarding the use of a gloss terminate every bit it is harder and volition take the wear and tear better. I would non employ a gloss on the interior sole as that could be hazardous when wet, and maybe even dry out while on a heel.

Date: November sixteen, 1999
From: Bob McManis BMCMANIS@email.msn.com

Male monarch,
I have an '84 Try 33 and have redone her Teak & Holly Sole every bit well as some of the teak interior. My Try information indicated that the interior teak was originally finished with Interlux 60 (Interior Rubbed Issue Varnish) which I establish to be available at West Marine. I merely sanded the worn areas and recoated with Interlux 60 and institute it matched perfectly. As for the sole, I removed the 3 panels and took them home to refinish almost five years ago. I used a palm sander to remove most of the existing covering and recoated with an exterior Polyeurethane. You tin can either go high gloss or satin. I used high gloss and was pleased with the results. I will need to redo my sole in the adjacent couple of years only keeping a couple of throw rugs on deck and cleaning frequently has prevented undue article of clothing. I hope this helps.

Engagement: November 18, 1999
From: Joe Alvarez JAl1748@aol.com

I had a 33 prior to owning my current E40, and did refinish the sole on the 33. It consists of a thin canvas of teak and holly over a thicker sheet of marine plywood. I unscrewed all three sections, very lightly sanded sanded and refilled any scratches on the sole then applied six coats of varnish using Baehrs marine varnish that i bought at Home Depot, before the rocket scientists decided to discontinue it from the Florida stores, I constitute that varnish to be the most durable of all finishes i have used.

While you have the sole out of the gunkhole, you may want to inspect the pan on which the sole rests, particularly forwardnear the five-berth, what was happening to me, that on occassion the shower in the head would overflow, and water would sith under the sole, theefore Imdrilled two holes in the pan next to the caput to enable h2o to bleed into the bilge.

Incidentally, I owned my 33 for ten years, and information technology was a fantastic gunkhole, very like shooting fish in a barrel to sail, confortable and quite large for its size, had I not decided to retire and spend longer periods of fourth dimension on the boat, I would still own Euphoria, non that the new Euphoria my E40 is not a slap-up boat. If you have any questions, that I may help you

Date: Tuesday, November sixteen, 1999 eight:41:22 PM
From: Josh Wallach jwallach@wink.net

Rex:
When we purchased our 1987 E-42 in 1993, she needed floor refinishing likewise every bit alot of teak touch up. Let'due south start with the teak affect up. The Endeavor factory used Interlux rubbed effect varnish on all interior teak. Give your bad spots a light sanding with about a 300 grit or effectively paper (sanded with the grain), and then two coats of the rubbed effect varnish. If you're careful and "feather" the edges, the touch upward will disappear into nicely varnished matching woods.

Regarding the flooring, the Teak & Holly is only a veneer and, Quite thin!!!! If y'all choose to take it to bare wood with a palm sander, use a relatively fine paper and exist Be CAREFUL! It'due south very piece of cake to fire correct through the thin veneer and into plywood. We originally used a i part high gloss polyurethane (five coats) and that has held upwardly very well for 6 years now...We're just most ready to re-coat with 2 topcoats and will probably become with semi-gloss or even satin. The loftier gloss tends to accentuate imperfections and nicks in the woods. I've been told that Dwelling house Depot carries an excellent polyurethane that's fabricated especially for wooden floors and it's actually priced commonly, non like gunkhole stuff!

Let me know if I tin help...good luck...

Appointment: November 16, 1999
From: Mike and Denise Brennan brennand@nbnet.nb.ca

We bought a 1984 E33 this past jump and the sole was in really rough shape. I removed the sole (iii pieces) and used a sander to sand off the erstwhile finish downwardly to the blank forest (teak & holly). Had to be very conscientious not to remove too much wood. Once I was downwards to the bare wood, I bought a good high gloss marine varathane and a Actually GOOD 4" varathane castor. I cutting the varathane about 10% with thinner and applied 8 coats of varathane. I permit each coat dry out thoroughly and sanded between each coat with an electric palm sander using 320 sandpaper. After the last coat I permit it cure about a month before I reinstalled it in the boat. The end result looks like a new sole!

Information technology was a lot of work, but was worth it. All together it took nigh ii months. After a summer of utilize, is is showing no wear (except for the small dent when I dropped the 20# burn extinguisher I was mounting). As for all the interior teak, we just used a teak oil and soft rag and went over the teak two weekends in a row. (Where the teak was stained/mildewed, we used a teak cleaner first). It looked good all summer. Nosotros'll practice information technology again in the spring.

ps: Don't use a liquid stripper to remove the old finish. The liquid will seep down between the cracks betwixt the teak and holly, and over time and after yous employ the new cease, will seep back out and remove all your difficult work. Good Luck!

Date: Nov 18, 1999
From: Dave Wright Dgw1@aol.com

I am a sometime owner of an Due east-32 and still receive the messages from Paul. My Attempt had a fiberglass floor then I did not have to worry about refinishing. I did supercede the teak veneer and all x ports. The teak veneer was varnished with high gloss afterward sanding. Exist careful if you sand--the teak veneer is very thin.

Withal, on the new (used) Tartan 37 we have teak and holly veneer flooring. I would imagine that yours is as well a veneer. We sanded the entire floor to bare woods using a actress fine sandpaper every bit the final sanding. In one case again, I would be careful as the teak and holly veneer is probably not very thick. Once sanded and dust cleaned, it was wiped with alcohol to dry out. Additionally, when wet with booze, information technology will show you what color the finished production volition exist. We used Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane (articulate semi-gloss). Three coats were practical with lite sanding in between coats (nosotros wish we had put more coats). At the boat show in Annapolis, I saw some of the more expensive boats with rubbed effect satin varnish. Nevertheless, we did not want to fool with the varnish. Ours came out just fine.

\Caution, teak is an exotic woods and animate protection should exist used when sanding. My married woman used a small-scale orbital sander with a handbag. In that location volition be a lot of dust.

Date: November 16, 1999
From: Henry & Chippy Society henry@gezernet.co.il

Hullo,
Well I hope that I tin can help you every bit I take an endeavour33 84 which I I bought 2 years ago in united states of america and sailed her to Israel last May. I noticed that the floor was similar pitted and an old salt showed me that the varnish was worn off in places, and his advice was every bit follows.

Removed the boards from the boat and and then in trivial parts sprayed them with a varnish remorver, the spray bubbled and before it stale similar 5-8 minutes I scrapped all the quondam varnish off with a spatula a metal one. The varnish came off very like shooting fish in a barrel. After all the varnish was off I sanded the floor in a up and downwards move ,not against the grain until it really looked skilful. If you wanted to see how information technology would look varnished and then wet information technology a scrap and you lot see the lovely grain. I used a 120 no sanding paper and had to keep cleaning the newspaper all the time.

After all this I gave a coat of yacht varnish using the gloss non the matt and after a drying out period of at least 24 hours, maybe more by you lot equally the atmospheric condition is colder I sanded it lightly with a no 220. This was repeated half-dozen times and at present my floor (sole) looks similar a million Dollars.

For the teak in the interior I use a Lemon oil which tin can be bought at the Westward Marine stores. I haven't yet found what to utilize in Israel.

Engagement: November xx, 1999
From: Bud Berry Isle TM@aol.com

We accept a 1987 E42 and plan to redo our floors this wintertime...we have done the area behind the companionway ladder and under the nav station. we used a small scrapper to remove the old varnish using the scraper along with a powerful heat gun. heating old varnish is the But Style we found to remove the varnish with a reasonable corporeality of mess that tin be vacuumed up. no way would nosotros e'er consider using a liquid stripper again. afterwards scrapping, a light sanding with 320 grit sandpaper used with a sanpaper cake is all nosotros do before final prep by wiping the sanded surface with acetone and a tack rag. we use satin varnish with about 5 or 6 coats.

Date: October 16, 2000
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com

I have just finished refinishing my teak parquet floor. It's thick and easily sanded out with a plam sander and 150 or effectively paper. A lot of vacuuming and the dust isn't too bad. I chose a polyurethane for the coats, as it's interior and would stand up to dust and other nasty matter. I cleaned the floor with the 2 role cleaner and got the deep stains out. Then used an oak stain in the outset urethane coating. Then 2 more coats of satin with 220 dust rubbing the sheen off. The sheen was a bit dull, so the last blanket was semi-gloss. It went on and looks merely groovy. In that location is very lilliputian difference between gloss and semi, but a lot of difference going to satin. I used a foam brush for the last coating, and have no runs or stray bristles. Don't forget to wipe the area down with thinner only earlier applying the coatings. Then shut the hatches and leave. Plan on a few brusque days to become the correct stop. Information technology'due south amazing how it cleans upwardly and stays looking shiny and new.

R Due east P L Y